Meeting - Mammut & I at the Office.

I have been incredibly fortunate to be one of the Mammut sponsored guides for over ten years.

A sponsorship to a single guide or small guide service is of utmost importance as it helps keep us in tune with new and innovative mountain products. The ropes, mountain boots, technical equipment and the clothing are of the highest quality and each of these product has been hand selected and personally tested. The Mammut brand delivers and stands up to the extreme winter conditions on Mt Washington and on snow and ice climbs throughout the northeast.

Today Gribben (Mammut Marketing Services Coordinator) came over to Crawford Notch for a day of ice climbing on Mt Willard. Our goal was to connect and to talked shop while climbing ice and snow in an amazing office the alpine environment.

Enjoy photos of Gribben enjoying the ice in Crawford Notch.

A snow covered first pitch, unusual conditions for this season.

Grib working through the squeeze on Hitchcock Gully.

Great ice and snow on upper Hitchcock Gully.

Grib sporting and putting to the test the latest Mammut garments.

The final top out to the summit of Mt Willard. Thank to Mammut and Grib for a great day on the ice and snow.

Art Mooney

Willey Slide with Jen and Ken

Today I had a fun day on the ice with Jen and Ken from New York. We climbed together a few season ago on Whitehorse but this was our first time on the ice. Willys is one of the best climbs around to introduce a climber to multi pitch ice. The route is 600 feet long with lots of moderate ice and a few tricky bulges to surmount. This would be the perfect place for us to gain mileage on the ice.

The view of upper Crawford Notch with Mt Willard in center.

First glimpse of the route for Jen and Ken.

Our first pitch was along one, 60 meters long with a roomy offset of the ropes.

Jen tackling the upper bulge of ice on Willys Slide.

The route is long and here we are taking a needed rest break high on the climb.

A comfortable Ken in the alpine area.

Willys Slide in fine shape.

Thanks to jen and Ken for a fun day on the ice together.

Art Mooney

Alpine on Willard and Steep Ice on The Beast!!!

Again the weather was off - Mike and I enjoyed two days of alpine and ice climbing in what was forecasted to be rainy conditions. Conditions on our Mt Willard day were perfect for the alpine environment, it was windy and snowing just enough to heighten the excitement. Mike and I first climbed Lower and Upper Hitchcock Gully next was East Slabs Left and Right, then we climbed the Cleft to the top. It was a fast paced day with lots of climbing mileage and multiple transitions.

Mike doing a bit of promo work for MMG and other equipment companies.

The calm on approach to the alpine climbing arena.

Anchors like this are quick to set up and easy to break down.

Mike trying to avoid the squeeze on Lower Hitchcock Gully.

The Crawford Notch panorama as seen from the East Slabs.

Moving out in the Cleft - an amazing route in a narrow chasm that cuts through the upper cliff band.

Day two - Mike getting after it on the Beast in fat conditions.

Mike watching me on our last pitch of the Beast - the line took a thin runnel of ice to the forest.

Thanks Mike for an amazing time.

Art Mooney

Mountain travels with Carl and Jeremy.

Carl was looking for a couple of test days to find out where he was physically. He has a goal to climb some bigger peaks. Thinking that the White Mountains would be a perfect place for a testing ground, he found himself in NH for the challenge.  One day Carl took on the well known Franconia loop and the next day he climbed on Mount Washington. He was able to get a nice review on mountain traveling, safety and his fitness level.

Great job Carl.  

Thanks for climbing with us at MMG.

Jeremy was able to get away for the three day weekend. Ice climbing one day and Mount Washington another. He was also able to squeeze in a fun gully climbing "Landslide". He was looking for something that was - as he put it "interesting".   The climb was in great shape and the weather was fantastic.

We could not have asked for a better day.

Thanks Jeremy for climbing with MMG.

Jim Gagne MMG Guide

Wild winds and cold temps on Mt Washington NH!!!

Mt Washington delivered quite a punch to the MMG guides and guests on the presidential day summit climb. The cobalt blue skies was the only exception to the saying "The Worlds Worst Weather" these clear skies did help lead to our success. The stiff northwest winds average 50+ as the team entered the above tree line area. We all hoped for a slight decrease but it went the other way and as we topped out on the summit the peak gust for the day slammed us at 87 MPH. Temperatures were in the single digits all day. This was two out of the three weather components that we use to determine to go or not - high winds and cold temps (yes) visibility great (we could lead the way quickly). Our decision to go was the right one as we all topped out in good shape. Clothing and equipment worked well, all climbers had full face protection, the team was strong and moved quickly. This shows if you have a plan and prepare properly you can venture into some very wild weather conditions with a reasonable margin of safety.

First views of the wind whipped slopes.

First rays of sun peaking over the ridge.

A blustery morning as we break out from tree line into the alpine zone.

Climbers are headed for a windbreak at Lake of the Clouds Hut.

Alex setting a slow steady pace as he leads the way up the summit cone.

There were short breaks from the wind but not for long.

Trail conditions are very good on the western slope. The snow underfoot is firm, all the rocks are covered, and there are few icy spots. It does not get much better than this.

This was very exciting and rewarding day on the mountain. Much thanks to all the team for working together which made this day a successful climb.

Art Mooney

Snowshoe into Greely Ponds.

Nick just arrived from Atlanta. He is on his yearly journey to NH to get his fix on climbing. Whether it be the ice, mountaineering on Mt Washington, or as we did today a snowshoe hike to a beautiful spot in the White Mountains we always have a great time together. The tour to Greely Ponds was a perfect warm up for Nick, he is here for four days and our plans are for combination of different climbing each day.

The sun came out mid day as we toured around the pond.

A dusting of snow softened the trail for us.

Cliff faces rise in all directions above the pond.

Nick and I up at the upper pond area.

The East Face of Osceola has numerous ice routes - On the Drool of the Beast is one. Could be a few unclimbed lines here.

Art Mooney

A quick change in plans and Three Summits!!!

The temperatures and winds were unfavorable for a Mt Washington summit climb last Sunday. At 7:30pm last Friday evening I called for a meeting with 11 new guests. Our plans had changed and I need everyone to rally and be ready at 5am on Saturday for Mt Washington. I saw smiling faces around the group as they all knew the forecast was for a brutally cold day on Sunday. We prepped at our meeting and met early as planned.

Saturday was a good day for a summit climb on the mountain. We did climbed in whiteout conditions but the winds were light and temps were average 10 on the summit. All 14 of us summited at 12 noon in time for a lunch break and tour of the area.

Our descent was quick we were all back to the cars by 4 pm. This change of plans made for a great day on Mt Washington

Part two - Dickey and Welsh.

Today was frigid in Plymouth. Four degrees with brisk winds. It was a good day to be near tree line on a south facing mountain. We all enjoyed learning and refining our new mountaineering skills on Mt Dickey and Mt Welsh. This area has a variety of wide open slopes to practice crampon and ice axe techniques. A couple of guests enjoyed this terrain as much as the alpine area on Mt Washington

Group photo on the summit of Welsh. The temp was 3 and the wind chill topped out at -46 in one wind gust. I used the Kestral weather meter to provide us this information.

The decision to change plans made for a successful weekend. Summits are the goal but one needs to climb safe a respect the extreme weather that Mt Washington is known for.

Thanks to each of you for coming to NH and having the flexibility to change plans - getting ready for the early morning on Saturday.

Art Mooney